Antigua, Leeward Islands

3rd February

Today is our last destination in the Caribbean – Antigua, a beach with an island in the middle, is the great way to describe this charming Caribbean island. It is part of the Leeward islands, roughly circular the island is about 12 miles in diameter and has some of the finest beaches in the Caribbean, more than 350 of them – with gleaming pink-white sand backed by gently waving palms. The variation in temperature is less than 10 degrees 77 – 85 degrees F, and rainfall is low. However, to the south-west, where the island is more hilly, lush tropical vegetation is more evident.

During the 18th and 19th centuries Antigua was the headquarters of the Commander-in-Chief of the Leeward Island Station and the principal British naval base in the Eastern Caribbean during the Napoleonic Wars. Admirals Nelson, Rodney, Hood and Jervis all made the dockyard, and it was from here that Rodney sailed to the Battle of the Saints.

The most famous attraction in Antigua is Nelson’s Dockyard in English Harbour, 12 miles from St. Johns the capital. To the right of the entrance is a huge water catchment tank, whose low walls are covered with the initials of many sailors of bygone days including those of Nelson himself.

In 1967 Antigua became an associated state within the Commonwealth and achieved full independence in 1981.

Out excursion today was entitled Highlights and Lobster Lunch. After driving through St. Johns and then on through the countryside and on to the cliff top location of the Island’s two ancient sights: Block House Ruins and Shirley Heights, where the ruins of the 18th century fortifications were to be seen. From this vantage points we had panoramic views over Nelsons Dockyard, Galleon’s Beach and English Harbour. Also we could see the peninsular where Eric Clapton has built his secluded home. After a short stay we drove down to Nelsons Dockyard, where we had a short guided tour of the dockyard, before sitting down to our Lobster Lunch accompanied by a Rum Punch in one of the old renovated buildings. The lunch exceeded our expectations and we had good company on our table, with two people off the P & O ship the Oceana, which was also in port today. We compared notes of ships and cruises that we had each travelled on.

After lunch we toured the dockyard taking in the views and looking at some of luxury yachts moored there, plus the usual shop browsing. From here we were off again for a drive to Turners Beach for an hour and a half’s relaxation (and swim for some), including yet another Rum Punch. Although the sun was hidden behind clouds we relaxed on the sunbeds and dipped our toes in the water.

All too soon we were off again back to the ship, just in time for our sailaway party on the terrace deck where we had a sing-song and a lot of flag waving as we reversed out of the dock next to three other cruise ships, including the Oceana. This was quite emotional as we were leaving the Caribbean and embarking on our long trip home. However, the captain had a different idea, as two hours out of Antigua he announced he was turning around and returning to port as he had a medical emergency on board and needed to transfer a patient ashore. (We understand a lady had a heart attack and is now progressing reasonably well in an Antiguan hospital).

6th February

We have now been at sea for three days and the weather, although slightly cooler at a mere 77 Degrees F, has been very good with plenty of time to catch up with last minute sunbathing before our return to the UK winter. However, the captain has just announced that we are approaching a depression and can expect swells of 7 – 8 metres later in the day.